A Georgian Supra Comes to Holly Springs

When someone says they are from "Georgia" it is likely that you are going to assume that they are from the "state" made famous by the Bulldogs and Ray Charles. However, un beknowing to many their is actually a "country" called Georgia - the country that intersects with Europe and Asia and was once a Soviet republic. It is now home to Caucasus Mountain villages and Black Sea beaches.

It is also an ancient wine-growing region producing over 500 unique grapes. The country is actually one of the oldest winemaking regions in the world, as evidenced by a discovery just a few years ago when archeologists discovered a "qvevri" a traditional clay vessel used to make wine in Georgia. Inside the ancient qvevri were discovered grape seeds dating to 6000 BCE. UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) was so impressed by the existence of these ancient clay jars that they included qvevri on its Intangible Cultural Heritage list in 2013.

The qvevri, large egg-shaped, beeswax-lined, porous terracotta vessels, are filled with grapes, skins intact, covered and buried underground for six months. Due to the vessel’s bulbous shape and pointed bottom, it acts as a natural filtration system, enhancing the natural essence of their wines. These vessels are so large that they are cleaned by people going inside the qvevri and cleaning the insides with cherry bark brushes that have natural antiseptic.

So What Is Special About a Supra and Why Stage One?

In order to fully answer that question I must first share with you where the idea came from for this adventurous cultural and culinary experience. Essentially it started with me sampling a Georgian wine. Unfortunately, I can not recall the wine nor the place where I had it. However, these fuzzy details pale in comparison to what happened afterwards,

These details I recall vividly.

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As I often do, after discovering a new wine, I contacted my dear friend and wine mentor Dave Nershi, CSW and the editor of Vino-Sphere https://www.vino-sphere.com/. I was not surprised when he not only told me he was familiar with wine from Georgia but that he was preparing for an IFWTWA (International Food, Wine & Travel Writers Association) webinar on Georgian wine AND that the webinar would be attended by Tommo Williams at https://eatthistours.com/ who gives tours to wineries in Georgia!

Afterwards, all it took was a quick google search of "Georgia food" to quickly gain an appreciation and curiosity for Georgian wine and food. As a result, our hosting and mutually collaborating for this event was born and the rest is history.

So...What is a Supra?

In Georgia, a Supra is a traditional feast and a significant part of Georgian social culture. It's much more than just a meal; it's a social event combining storytelling, singing, and meaningful toasts. The word "supra" literally translates to "tablecloth" in Georgian, signifying a table laden with abundant food.

Traditionally this meal is led by a "tamada" or toastmaster. The tamada's role is central to the social dynamics and flow of the gathering, guiding the event with eloquent speeches and toasts, ensuring all guests feel engaged and fostering a positive atmosphere. There is poetry, singing and protocol (for example, no one drinks until the Tamada proposes a toast.) And when they do toast the collective response is “Sakartvelos Gaumarjos!” or "Victory to Georgia". Think of it as how we says "cheers".

And with that the idea of hosting a Supra was born.

Where Did The Wines Come From?

I now what you are likely now thinking...where in the world did you and Dave procure the wines for this event? That is an excellent question because again although I had sampled wine from Georgia it escapes my memory exactly where. Because I sample so much with with Anna Lange and the staff at Vino Wine Bar in Pittsboro https://www.vinowineshopnc.com/ my first inclination was here. However after correspondence with Anna it is doubtful that is where it ocurred.

I also contacted more that one wine vendor who told me they had no Georgian wine on the shelf and if they did it was likely to gather dust due to lack of demand. A sentiment that I totally understood especially from a business aspect. Yet when the prospects of locating vendors seemed dim we were fortunate to locate not one but three retail locations in close proximity to our homes in Holly Springs.

Triangle Wine located in Holly Springs https://trianglewineco.com/pages/holly-springs was a source for many of our wines and boasted a tremendous selection, truth be told we could have done all the wines from them, Their selection was indeed impressive and should you be curious about further exploration of Georgian wine I highly recommend them. The selection at Total Wine in Apex https://www.totalwine.com/store-info/north-carolina-apex/616 was equally well stocked and also highly recommended.

But the source that caught us off guard much to our surprise was a new wine bar located in nearby Fuquay Varina called "Lucci Blues" Social Cafe https://lucciblues.com.

Here we were not only surprised by the availability of the wine, but the owner Kim Blue and her staff graciously offered Dave a sample on a prior visit. Based on a visit to Italy by the owner, this newest addition is very welcome and worth a visit.

So, with the wines in hand and the guest list created (which was no small task because Dave and I are blessed with many friends) all we did was assign each course to a couple and Dave and I matched the wines with the dishes. Although we were unable to sample most wines and all the dishes prior to the event, we were confident we were on the right track after our friend Tommo Williams at Eat This Tours Georgia https://eatthistours.com/ approved our selections.

And as they say, the rest is history, and here is the result...

Welcome Cocktail - Pomegranate Mimosa

When Dave and I started creating this meal, the first thing we remembered was that the heat and humidity would likely make conditions outside unbearable and w wanted a cocktail that was cool and refreshing (regardless of any connection to Georgia). After minimal discussion we agreed on Mimosas (with a prosecco base) but what I did with the cocktail afterwards made it Georgian and unique.

I choose pomegranate juice to combine with the chilled sparkling wine and the result was magical something akin to a "Kir Royale" (Chambord raspberry liquor combined with sparkling wine). In Georgian culture and cuisine, pomegranates and their derivatives are a beloved and versatile ingredient, adding flavor, color, and symbolism to many dishes. Symbolizing virtues from prosperity to good luck they are integral to Georgian cuisine.

To keep the cocktail chilled I used a frozen cylinder of pomegranate juice to maintain the temperature without diluting the cocktail. By all accounts the guests as well as fellow host were pleased with my effort and the supra was off to a rousing start.

FIRST COURSE - Khachapuri

prepared by Diane & John Bomba

served with 2021 Marani Gemieri White Blend, Kakheti wine

The first course featured Khachapuri, a traditional cheesy bread dish with an egg nestled in it. The course featured the exceptional baking skills of Diane who literally baked the bread there and skillfully mixed the broken egg and cheese creating a delightful savory beginning to the meal.

Khachapuri is considered Georgia's national dish and is part of the country's intangible cultural heritage. Its price is used as a measure of inflation in Georgia through the "khachapuri index".

I had attended a similar meal with the Bombas before and they never disappoint; delightful and fun people.

For the wine for this course we selected 2021 Marani Gemieri White Blend, Kakheti wine Rkatsiteli 40%, Mtsvane 40%, Tsolikauri 20%. The ancient Georgian word "Gemieri" is translated as "tasty." A hand-picked variation of carefully selected and ripe grapes from the microzones Sviri in Imereti and Tsinandali in Kakheti. Light straw color with aromas of pear, quince, rapeseed oil, and white pepper, a fruity soft texture in the mouth with autumn apples, quince, and grapefruit seeds and a slightly spicy finish.

This pairing was perfect with the acidity and bright notes of the wine cutting through the richness of the egg and cheese seamlessly creating a harmonious pairing. With that our meal was well off to an auspicious start.

Our toast for this course from Dave serving as tamada was "Praise ​G​od, so He may protect us and our country.”

SECOND COURSE - Pkhali

prepared by Diane and Gary Wessel

served with K’Deda Qveri Dry Amber Wine

Our second course of the evening featured Pkhali, a traditional Georgian dish, often served as a spread or salad. It is made with finely chopped or minced vegetables combined with a rich, pureed walnut sauce, vinegar, onions, garlic, and herbs. While the most popular version of Pkhali uses spinach as its base, a variety of vegetables can be used, including beetroot, cabbage, eggplant, beans, carrots, and squash. Even wild greens can be used.

The preparation involves cooking the vegetables, then blending or finely chopping them with the walnuts, garlic, herbs, spices, and vinegar to form a thick paste or spread. This mixture is often shaped into balls and garnished with pomegranate seeds. Pkhali is typically served at room temperature and is delicious on its own as a salad or spread. It can also be enjoyed with crackers, bread, or toast. It's flavor and texture reminded us of pesto.

As you can see, the dish was beautifully and artistically presented and it seemed a shame to destroy it in order to eat. However, I had also had the pleasure of dining with the Wessels and was pretty sure they would be understanding.

The wine paired with this course was K’Deda Qveri Dry Amber Wine, Tsinandali wine, a slightly sparkling wine with an amber color in the glass, very nice aroma immediately after opening, nice viscosity after swirling in the glass, aroma of caramelized fruit and meadow flowers. The wine was full bodied and balanced with a spicy taste and was crafted from 100% Rkatsiteli.

This pairing was also well received by our dinner guests and the toast from Dave serving as tamada was “Let’s drink to peace in our hearts, families, and homeland.”

THIRD COURSE - Kharcho

prepared by Dave and Kathy Nershi

served with Kakhuri Gvinis Marani 2023 Saperavi Argo wine

With Dave and Kathy taking over the next part of the culinary Georgian journey it was time for a switch in tamada and I gladly took the reigns. Our next course was Kharcho, a hearty beef and rice soup also known as Harcho. A traditional Georgian soup that features beef, rice, cherry plum purée and walnuts. Khmeli Suneli, a distinct Georgian spice blend, and coriander are used to season the soup.

Kharcho is typically made with fatty cuts of beef like chuck or brisket, which contributes to the soup's richness. The sour plum sauce, tkemali, balances out this richness with its tart flavor. Other key ingredients include onions, garlic, and fresh herbs like cilantro and parsley. While some versions are thicker and more stew-like, traditionally Kharcho is a soup that is served hot and garnished with fresh cilantro. In the Samegrelo region of Georgia, Megrelian kharcho is made as a stew, omitting the rice and usually served with ghomi (Georgian polenta).

The wine for this course was Kakhuri Gvinis Marani 2023 Saperavi Argo, Saperavi is a teinturier grape- the flesh is plum-colored, as is the skin. This gem is deep garnet color with a dominant aroma of ripened fruit and occasional hints of smoke, it was actually a gift from Dave quite some time ago and I had stored it in my cellar for such an occasion. I retained the ornate pottery style bottle as a memento of the meal.

The tannins in the wine melded perfectly with the richness and savory soup and the corresponding result was one of my favorite pairings of the meal. As the new tamada for this course I opened with not one but two toasts:

"To Georgia, whose flavors speak louder than words. As we savor Kharcho, may we also taste her history, her heart, and her hospitality. Sakartvelos Gaumarjos!" Victory to Georgia!​

"The heart of the meal, like the heart of the home, is found where the pot of Kharcho boils,"

FOURTH COURSE - Satsivi

prepared by Kyle and Natalie Hampton

served with Teliani Valley Tsolikouri wine

Satsivi is a renowned Georgian dish featuring poultry, typically chicken or turkey, smothered in a rich, creamy walnut sauce. The term "satsivi" itself refers to the walnut sauce, and it's also used to describe various poultry dishes that incorporate this sauce. Traditionally, Satsivi is served cold, although some prefer it warm or at room temperature. The word "tsivi" in Georgian literally means "cold," highlighting this aspect of the dish. The core of Satsivi is its luscious walnut sauce, made by grinding walnuts into a paste and blending them with various spices and herbs. Common seasonings include garlic, fenugreek, coriander, cinnamon, cayenne pepper, and often Imeretian saffron. While most commonly made with chicken, turkey is a traditional choice, especially during New Year's celebrations in Georgia.

The wine for this dish was 2022 Teliani Valley Tsolikouri, made from Tsolikouri grapes grown in the Imereti wine region. It is fermented in stainless steel. The wine has a light lemon color, aromas of green apple, and fruit flavors of grapefruit and pineapple, and a mineral-rich and refreshing finish.

The rich creamy walnut sauce was mediated by the racy acidity of the wine and the pairing was not only memorable but our last white wine of the evening.

I should also mention that Natalie and Kyle graciously provided us with samples of homemade Georgian wine ; procured through a connection associated with their church. These wines were rustic and delicious and enjoyed by all who sampled.

My toast for this meal was “Let’s drink to new life, joy, and the future of our children.”

FIFTH COURSE - Mtsvadi

prepared by Arthur and Mary Barham

served with 2022 Shumi Iberiuli Mukuzani wine

For our next course, it was time for me to take my turn in the culinary lineup and simultaneously divest myself of tamada duties turning that responsibility back over to Dave, prepared my version of Mtsvadi a type of Georgian shashlik (grilled meat skewers). Mtsvadi is more than just food; it's a cultural icon reflecting Georgia's love for gatherings and celebrations.

For my version I used marinated pork tenderloin flavored with pomegranate molasses and garlic. I presented the dish with pickled red onion in my signature cast iron skillets I first used for paella during the Spanish themed Dinner en Blanc (also a collaboration with Dave and Kathy).

In hindsight I wish I had grilled the meat onsite because it continued to cook still wrapped in foil and was a bit overdone for my taste. Yet, the marinate still left the meat juicy and succulent and I had no worries of food borne illness due to undercooked pork.

The wine we served with this course was 2022 Shumi Iberiuli Mukuzani The name “SHUMI” comes from the ancient Georgian language and means "the best wine".

This is a dry red wine, composed of 100% Saperavi from the Mukuzani appellation in Kakheti, Georgia. It is packed with aromas of cassis, blackberry, and Christmas spices, with hints of cherry stone. Mukuzani is considered to be one of the greatest regions for Saperavi, Georgia’s flagship grape. The appellation calls for the wine to be aged in oak, rather than the traditional in

l qvevri, for a minimum of three years.

Dave was back to his duties as tamada and our toast was “To the beautiful half of our planet—kind women who bring warmth and grace.”.

SIXTH COURSE - Medovik

prepared by Bryant and Michele Harrison

served with 2023 Marani Tvishi wine

I have to take some of the credit for this dish and course because I knew exactly what I was doing when I assigned it to my dear friends Bryant and Michele Harrison. .Michele is a veritable master of sweets as evidenced by my constant requests for "something sweet" whenever she asks "what should I bring" prior to our regular wine tastings.

Medovik, also known as Russian honey cake, is a popular dessert in Russia and other countries of the former Soviet Union. The cake is made with thin, honey-infused cake layers and a creamy filling, typically made with sour cream, whipped cream, or condensed milk. It's renowned for its numerous layers and delicate texture that melts in the mouth. Medovik is believed to have originated in the 19th century in the Russian Empire. Legend has it that a young chef in the Imperial kitchen, unaware of Empress Elizabeth Alexeievna's dislike for honey, created a new cake featuring the ingredient and thick sour cream.

Surprisingly, the Empress loved the cake, leading to its popularity. Medovik recipes can vary, but generally include ingredients for the cake layers and the cream filling.

For the final course of the meal we paired this decadent desert with 2023 Marani Tvishi, a medium-sweet white wine produced from Tsolikauri grapes. It's a pale wine with a greenish tint and subtle scents of honeysuckle and apricots. It is delicately sweet but kept fresh and appealing by zesty acid, while the long aftertaste brings back, once more, the floral and fruity aromas made from 100% Tsolikauri.

We all agreed that the almost tawny port feel and taste of this wine was not only a worthy pairing with the dish but a fitting end to a well orchestrated Georgian Supra. Our final toast of the evening was by Dave and it was “A guest is a gift from God—may our guests feel honored and welcome.”

A traditional Supra will often contain poetry and even singing, and our lead tamada Dave did not disappoint by having am "Oprah Moment" where certain guests were selected to read special preselected verses of poetry.

My dear friend Bryant was selected to read Rivers of Memory:

Rivers of Memory

A river flows through time and space,

In Georgia’s lands, it finds its place.

It carries whispers from the past,

An embrace of moments meant to last.

With every ripple, tales arise,

Of love and loss beneath the skies.

In Georgia’s depths, memories gleam,

Flowing like water, they softly dream.

This work highlights the significance of rivers in Georgia as metaphors for memory and history, reflecting the deep connections between individuals and their past.

My other dear friend Natalie, one third of the Mod Squad along with Dave and I, IYKYK) was chosen to share with us Fields of gold:

Fields of Gold

In golden fields where wildflowers bloom,

The scent of earth dispels all gloom.

Each blossom sings of life so bright,

Beneath the sun’s warm, guiding light.

A canvas painted green and gold,

In Georgia’s arms, the dreams unfold.

Nature’s bounty, a sight to behold,

In the heart of mountains, stories told.

Here, the poem portrays the idyllic beauty of Georgia’s landscapes, celebrating nature’s

vibrancy and the life it nurtures.

With Dave and I serving as tamada and keeping the meal flowing and festive we got a sense and feel of what an actual Supra on Georgian soil might feel like. With the authentic wines and as near as possible authentic dishes we gave our guests the best rendition that we could by doing our best to replicate the Georgian Supra. Thanks to the generous culinary contributions of our esteemed guests were were able to eat as Georgians.

In closing, it was not lost on me that while we could replicate the meal, we could not totally recreate the conditions facing Georgians today (nor did we care to). You see, while they enjoy their supras they have the reality of war and the consequences of war on their very door step. As I ate my meal, I remembered them and I vowed to stand in solidarity with anyone who suffers through the brutality of war.

In Holly Springs, our supra was staged in the land of the free and the home of the brave without the threat of war, let us remember that at every meal on American soil, not just the Supra.

“Sakartvelos Gaumarjos!”