Merlot2muscadine's Italian Odyssey 2025- Part One/ Piemonte
- barhama
- Oct 27
- 15 min read
Updated: Nov 1
When my wife first appeared open to the idea of a trip to Italy, I was more than a bit surprised. More than surprised, I was very excited. Although we both mutually agreed that when the stars aligned and the opportunity was right we would surely make the trip abroad; it had never become a reality. She had not been to Europe since she was 10 years old. I had never ever traveled "across the pond".
Yet in each trip we considered there was always a deal breaker; from the price to the timing there was always a major obstacle preventing us from any further consideration. Often we came close, but no travel agent or boarding pass.
That is until Terroir Tours https://terroirtours.com/ and The Wisdom Table https://www.wisdomtable.com/ proposed a trip to Italy.
Finally, the perfect storm.
From the price to the people we would travel with it was the perfect combination. We were not only intrigued to travel with our dear friends Jeremy and Krystle Stamps, long time co owners of The Wisdom Table in downtown Elkin; but equally eager to celebrate with Jeremy the noteworthy accomplishment of successfully passing Level Three Advanced Sommelier - Court of Master Sommeliers Americas! We also got to meet a few of the people we would travel with prior to embarking and they were all fun loving and delightful.
So after months of listening to my wife discuss airline travel fees like a hedge fund adviser on the floor of a stock exchange and preparing for my very first trip that required a passport we were finally on our way.
We could only arrange to fly in the lap of luxury aka "First Class" for one leg of the trip and agreed that the trip over would be the lavish leg. This was also the first time I had been able to fly first class in about 30 years and boy has first class changed,
It didn't take us long to settle in and in a mere 8 hours all the while high over the Atlantic we successfully touched down in Milan.
Unfortunately we arrived in Milan about seven hours too early. However, this allowed us to clear customs and retrieve our luggage at our leisure.
Unfortunately I opted to be early as opposed to cut the transition times shorter and risk a missed connection.
Although a bit too early it afforded the opportunity to get some well needed rest in time to meet the rest of our travel group as well as out tour guides for the excursion - Jake Assaf and Lauren Hudson of Terroir Tours
Fortunately our tour guide hosts were very definitive about our meeting location within the Milan Airport and in just a few hours we were all assembled, boarded on the bus with our belongings and on our way via a luxury coach bus to our very first destination - Alba in Piemonte.
Along the way we were informed that we would make a pit stop about half way to Alba.
Little did i know that I was about to experience something akin to Wawa in the states...the Italian truck stop or more appropriately - The AutoGrill.
This place was like nothing I had ever experienced; think Wawa and Walmart had a baby! Filled with the smell of freshly prepared foods and enough souvenirs to make South of the Border jealous it was a chaotic hustle and bustle of a huge number of individuals in a small space.
Did i mention the bathrooms? Of course although food and drink as well as gas were high priorities for the many that make the stop, the need to relieve oneself and make room for more sustenance was paramount. With the bathroom facilities located on a level below the commerce the stairway was a constant flow of humanity.
This unique space allowed an opportunity to eat, drink, stretch our legs and even buy a few souvenirs before getting back on the bus and continuing the trip.
But just as we were about to get back on the bus, we turned and looked to the North and beheld the sight I captured here - the majestic snow capped Alps mountains towering in the distance
Many in our group saw this sight and it was the subject of numerous photos who all saw the mountains in all their splendor, However, as a retired sixth grade science teacher for nearly two decades I saw something else - the collision between the African and European tectonic plates that occurred millions of years ago during the era of Pangea.
This collision occurred with so much force that it pushed high into the air what we know today as the Alps mountain range.
Our First Destination - Serralunga d'Alba -Fontanafredda
At last we arrived at our first destination which would serve as our home away from home for three days - Foresteria delle Vigne at Fontanafredda in Serralunga d"Alba.
Founded by the first King of Italy in 1858 and born from the love story between the King of Italy, Vittorio Emanuele II, and Rosa Vercellana., this working winery and its surrounding buildings and gardens are steeped in history. This place will forever be special to me - the very first place I spent the night in Italy. Think of Fontanafredda as a museum, restaurant, winery and hotel all rolled into one. It as a magical place and I couldn't think of a better place to begin our Italian odyssey.
The accommodations at Fontanafredda were amazing. Lavish and comfortable, we stayed in the Foresteria delle Vigne (or vineyard guesthouse). Our check in was prompt and professional. In no time we were headed to our accommodations.
Shortly after checking in I was quite anxious to have my very first taste of wine on Italian soil. You can't imagine how delighted I was to be greeted by my friend Jeremy Stamps who had already arrived in Italy several days prior. The smile on his face said it all and he greeted me with a glass of Timorasso.
Timorasso is an Italian white wine made from a rare, indigenous grape of the same name grown almost exclusively in the Colli Tortonesi region of Piedmont. Often called "white Barolo" because of its structure and exceptional aging potential, it produces complex, full-bodied wines with high acidity and minerality.
Once we arrived and I enjoyed my first glass of wine in Italy we settled in to our accommodations which exceeded my expectations. To be quite honest, I was prepared for some "glamping" especially since I knew our first three nights would be at a winery.
Our bed was spacious and comfortable and our on suite was well equipped, with amenities like a heated towel rack and spa level toiletries.
Because of the season, no air conditioning was available. However, opening the window ushered in a welcome breeze.
i have also read on social media complaints from people about noise during their visit and the ability to hear through the walls too much. I have no way of knowing in what accommodations they stayed nor no knowledge of the residents of the hotel during their stays (both direct factors related to room noise). I can attest to the fact that when I was there noise from other rooms was never a problem.
I also found the staff to be attentive and professional with an excellent command of the English language.
There were countless things to do at Fontanafredda. From hiking trails to wine to food ;this place was quite unique.
At this resort, they have done an exceptional job of not only preserving the unique history of the property but through a series of carefully placed placards they convey the story.
I also have a lasting memento of my stay at Fontanafredda falling in love with a beautiful champagne saber packaged with a bottle of sparkling.
After settling into our hotel and relaxing we turned our attention to our very first meal in Italy. Our group traveled to Osteria Dell 'enoteca. Davide Palluda located in Canale. Canale is a municipality in the Province of Cuneo, located about 25 mile southeast of Turin and about 37 miles northeast of Cuneo.
This was an amazing dining experience and the restaurant is highly rated on sites like TripAdvisor and Yelp. A Michelin star rated restaurant since 2000, the meal we were presented with was exquisite and set the bar high for upcoming dining experiences.
Memorable courses at this esteemed restaurant included the appetizer plate shown here which consisted of a beef tartare and a sliced veal dish among other offerings.
Another dish I savored was a freshly made pasta dish that had a filling and a sauce that to me was reminiscent of barbecue.
During the meal we also enjoyed wine with each course and sampled Nebbiolo from Langhe, Barbera D'Alba as well as sparkling wine from Alta Langa.
I was fully prepared to enjoy not only freshly made pastas but also smaller portions while dining in Italy, yet what I experienced caught me off guard especially the flavors of the food. Fresh and vibrant they reflected dishes composed of fresh ingredients and artisan preparation.
During our stay in Piemonte the wines we had with all our meals were no less than exquisite. Each one not only reflecting the local terroir, but the passion and history of the winery as well. In this blogpost, please forgive me if I do not go into a lot of detail about the wines, invariably it would have made this read way too long.
Suffice it to say that we enjoyed the epitome of Barolo, Nebbiolo and Barbera wines during our stay that are among the most notable in this region as well as the entire world..
It didn't take me long in Italy to come to a few realizations.
In Italy the pace of life is much more leisurely. Most Italians eat breakfast until around noon, and it is a meal that they linger over and savor. It is also usually a very simple meal often consisting of a croissant and a cappuccino.
Speaking of cappuccino., you will find that most Italians seldom indulge in this beverage in the afternoon or evenings. Although I could neither confirm nor deny this I can assure you I saw many enjoying this beverage late in the day.
I guess they were all tourists.
Next on our agenda in Piemonte was what I considered to be not only a highlight of this region but the entire trip as well - a cooking class, wine tasting, tour and meal at the renowned Marrone Winery . The origins of this winery not only date back over a century but four generations of the same family have been it's stewards all these years
It was also here that we met the incomparable and highly charismatic "Freddie".
He jokingly told us that his real name was too hard for us to comprehend or understand and we would merely refer to him as "Freddie". His wit, knowledge and passion for wine were on full display and he was someone you never forget. His command of the English language was also exceptional. He greeted us by giving us a brief history of the winery and the wine there that is king of the region - Barolo.
After sharing with us a brief history of the winery and providing us a guided tour of their immense wine cellars and production facility we were ushered into a room where recipe books and aprons were awaiting each of us.
It was time to prepare a meal with the executive chef,
Under his watchful eye, each of us donned an apron and did everything from make homemade pasta to prepare a decadent veal sauce featuring immense amounts of wine. The best part was sitting down in their renowned restaurant Marrone Cantina Con Cucina.
A restaurant where farm to table is taken very seriously.
I was one of the first to volunteer my services in the preparation of the meal being no slouch in the kitchen. My first job was to make the blue cheese and Castelmagno sauce for the pumpkin and leek flan which was served with a parmesan crisp.
We all got to make fresh pasta and truthfully I don't think I can ever go back to dried store bought pasta again. With only flour and egg we created what can only be described as a simplistic masterpiece exuding freshness as well as the products of the region.
The best part of the entire experience was sitting down in their restaurant (full of locals enjoying a meal) and savoring the meal that my travel group actually prepared. Should I ever find myself back in Italy (and I pray that I do) this will surely be a place I would long to return.
And the first person I will look for is Freddie.
Freddie often referred to me affectionately as his "big boy" and his personality and wit made our visit to Marrone unforgettable. By the pile of euros left in the middle of the table as we exited I think Freddie will remember us as well.
Before I conclude my recount of my experience at Marrone I must share with you a few views of the surrounding countryside taken while on their immense property, they were breathtaking and trust me when I say that these pictures do not do the views justice.
After our visit to Marrone it was time to explore Alba on our own at the height of the truffle season.
A truffle is an edible, mushroom or fungus prized as a gourmet delicacy for its pungent, earthy flavor, which can also be described as musky, nutty, and umami.
It grows underground in a symbiotic relationship with the roots of certain trees, such as oak and hazel, and its rarity, specific growing conditions, and high demand contribute to its high cost.
The most famous types are the black winter truffle and the white truffle. Personally, I found the black variety to be the more pungent and earthy while the white variety was more delicate in both aroma and flavor.
So, with the pungent smell of truffles wafting through the air and permeating everything my wife and I set out on our very first encounters with the locals.
I am also very proud to say that I started studying the Italian language over a year ago in preparation for this trip. On multiple occasions my knowledge of conversational Italian not only only served us well but impressed more than a few locals.
Alba is a very quaint picturesque city and when we arrived they were at the height of their annual truffle season.
No doubt you are familiar with truffles or as the Italians refer to them "tartufi". The smell of fresh truffles wafter throughout the city and permeated all spaces with an earthy aroma.
After exploring Alba on foot for a few hours, we returned to our hotel to get ready for dinner, but prior to dinner we gathered at 100 Vini Caffe la Brasilera in downtown Alba.
In a private room on their uppermost floor of the building I was introduced to a cocktail that I quickly grew an affinity for - the Limoncello Spritz.
Made with the classic 3-2-1 recipe (3 parts prosecco, 2 parts limoncello, 1 part chilled club soda or sparkling water this endearing concoction is both refreshing and lively,
Truth be told, I was told by a local that the Aperol and Campari Spritz were much more popular among locals and that the sprite di limoncello was basically a tourist drink.
Call it whatever you will, but one of the first things I did when I returned home was made homemade limoncello!
It was now time for our evening meal.
For our diner that evening we gathered at an amazing restaurant where we were ushered into a private subterranean dining room at Enoclub Osteria, Piazza Michele Ferrero where the smell of fresh truffles permeated the atmosphere. The menu that we were treated to that evening was literally fit for a king.
Our meal that evening, in the privacy of their subterranean room in Alba at Enoclub Osteria made me feel like royalty. And since it was orchestrated at the height of the truffle festival and in Piemonte it paid tribute to the event in a manner that would have made an Italian king very proud.
It was here that I had one of the most memorable dishes of the entire trip - a fondant potato with shaved white truffle.
Another significant event occurred when we got to tour and taste wine at the Vietti Winery located in Castiglione Falletto CN, Italy. Our tour guides Jake and Lauren had been trying to get them to allow their tour groups in for several years.
According to our tour guide the apprehension could possibly be not the groups but the size, and since we were 18 strong our ability to tour and taste at this impressive structure was nothing less than a miracle.
In this region Barolo wine is king. Barolo is a full-bodied red wine known for its robust tannins and high acidity, made exclusively from the Nebbiolo grape in Italy's Piedmont region.
Revered as the "King of Wines," Barolo is a complex and age-worthy wine with distinct flavor notes of cherry, roses, and dark fruit.
Castiglione Falsetto's history dates back to Roman times, it occupies a very strategic location - on a 350-meter high hill that dominates the territory with a 360 degree view in every direction.
In the Middle Ages under the control of the Marquis of Saluzzo and specifically the Falletto family the construction was completed. Feudal lords alternated control, then France and finally the House of Savoy until the Unification of Italy. At the foot of the castle lies the old Scarrone vineyard, with a perfect view to the southeast, then in the direction of Serralunga. Here the Barbera clusters are abundant.
Vietti is an Italian winery located in the Piedmont region of northwestern Italy. Founded in the late 19th century, Vietti is one of the oldest and most well-respected wineries in the region. The winery is known for producing high-quality, traditional wines from the Nebbiolo grape, which is the signature grape variety of the Piedmont region.
Vietti is particularly renowned for its Barolo wines, which are made from Nebbiolo grapes grown in the Barolo DOCG zone. These wines are known for their rich, full-bodied character and complex aromas and flavors, which include notes of cherries, roses, violets, and leather.
In addition to Barolo, Vietti also produces other Nebbiolo-based wines, including Barbaresco, Barbera, and Langhe Nebbiolo, as well as other grape varieties such as Moscato and Arneis.
Our experience at Vietti was nothing less than amazing. Steeped in history and tradition, affording breathtaking view of the valley below coupled with the opportunity to savor an impressive selection of their wines made it one of the most memorable experiences of the trip,
We were privy to a private tour of their production and cellaring facilities that went four floors underground,
Afterwards we enjoyed an impressive array of their wines.
One of my favorite wines here was their version of Arneis.
Arneis is a dry, aromatic white wine made from the Arneis grape, primarily grown in Italy's Piedmont region. It is known for a medium body and vibrant notes of pear, apricot, and white flowers, often with a hint of almond or hazelnut on the finish. It is sometimes called "white Barolo" due to its origin just across the Tanaro River from the Barolo region.
I was proud to be in the inaugural group of Terroir Tours visit to Vietti Winery and very grateful that they opened their doors to our group. I look forward to the opportunity to return some day as well as sample their vintages.
For our final meal in Piemonte we gathered at Ristorante le Torri in Castiglione Falletto. The Restaurant Le Torri, located in the old medieval village in Castiglione Falletto, in the heartland of Barolo Wine production, a short walk from Alba, lays claim to be the capital of Langhe’s finest truffle in the world.
The meal that we were served was literally fit for a king and there was never any doubt that not only were we in the self professed truffle capital of the world AND that it was at the very height of the truffle season.
It was here that I had one of my most memorable dishes of the trip, a dish all in our group will affectionately remember as "the tearjerker".
On the menu it is called "Uovo Croccante con Fonduta e Tartufo Bianco" aka Poached Egg in bread crust, Cheese fondue and White Truffle
As the story goes, our beloved tour guide Jake was first introduced to this dish during a business meeting with colleagues. After sampling the dish he had to excuse himself from the table, brought to tears by the flavors so eloquently combined n the dish.
And the tearjerker was born.
This was also our second meal in Piemonte where a sliced veal dish was served tartare or carpaccio style as well as "Russian Potato Salad" and beef tartare.
For the wines during this meal, we enjoyed a Barbaresco, and an amazing Barolo from Villero,
I must also share with you that I am fully responsible for creating the tradition of sitting at the head of the table and documenting it.
As near as I can tell it started with this candid shot in Alba.
Later, at Ristorante Le Torri, I captured Michael W at the head of the table.
While I held court at the other end.
Stay tuned, the tradition continues at our next destination.
With this amazing meal now history, it was time to return to the Foresteria delle Vigne and pack up for an early morning departure. Many thanks to the staff at Fontanafredda for opening their doors to us much earlier than their normal hours of operation to accommodate our early departure.
In summary, I end with my final view of Piemonte from Fontanafredda as we descend the hill to board our bus en route to our next destination. This place will always be so special to me on so many levels, from first glass of wine to first meal in Italy and all the experiences in between.
Rich in history and a perfect segway into the rest of our trip; I look forward to returning...and preferably during truffle season!
Next stop...Tuscany! Ciao!
RECOMMENDED IN PIEMONTE
ACCOMODATIONS
Cantine Fontanafredda, Via Alba, 15, 12050 Fontanafredda CN, Italy
DINING
Osteria Dell 'Enoteca. Davide Palluda, Via Roma, 57, 12043 Canale CN, Italy
Enoclub Osteria, Piazza Michele Ferrero, 4, 12051 Alba CN, Italy
, Ristorante le Torri, Piazza Vittorio Veneto 10, 12060 Castiglione Falletto Italy
100 Vini Caffe la Brasilera, Via Roma, 2, 12050 Alba CN, Italy
VINEYARDS & WINERIES
Azienda Agricola Marrone, Via Annunziata, 13, 12064 La Morra CN, Italy
Vietti Winery, Piazza Vittorio Veneto, 5, 12060 Castiglione Falletto CN, Italy
Arthur - What a fantastic voyage and inspired article. I enjoyed every word of it. I can't wait until your second installment! Cheers!